b'WHAT OURCUSTOMERS SAID:Weve done loads of escorted tours and GRJ knocks spots off the rest. Its the attention to detail which makes the difference. Its the small things. Everything is included: tipping, transfers, porterage. JayneWe dont normally do thistype of holiday, but we knew India would have its challenges. Our first stop is Agra Fort, beautifulOne of my highlights is a ride in a pinkWe decided to try it and weand enigmatic, but for me an amuse- rickshaw with Renu, who runs thethink its been handled really bouche to the majesty of the TajPink City Rickshaw Company, whichwell. Its allowed us to see aMahal. Its like a mirage, breathesprovides women from low-incomelot of things we wouldnt befellow guest Kathy, whos visiting Indiabackgrounds with training and jobs. able to do. Stevefor the first time. Its just the epitome of true beauty, sighs Sarah, whos Seeing cows in the street, yaks in theThis is our first escorted tour also enjoying her first visit to India. Himalayas, tigers in the wild, andand Ive really enjoyed it. Ive It eclipses everything else weve seen,getting reacquainted with the Tajgot used to not having to make adds her husband Stephen. Mahal, not to mention the friendshipsany arrangements. Everything Ive made, are the experiences I mightis included. Weve not had to The next two nights are spent inhave missed as a backpacker.pay any entrance fees or had to the Ranthambore Regency Hotel, aqueue. Were already thinking 10-minute drive from RanthamboreLast time, I remember returningabout our next one. CathNational Park. Our itinerary includeshome utterly exhausted. India is anThe Taj Mahal was incredible. two safari drives in an open-topincredible country, but its not alwaysWe saw it at sunset and it was cantor. Seeing Royal Bengal tigers inan easy one to explore. But in just 12just so surreal and beautiful. the wild is never promisedtheredays, guided under the safe wings ofAnother highlight was seeing the are just 75 in the park. While weRos, Raaj and Great Rail Journeys, tigers at Ranthambore. Gillwerent lucky on the first trip, theI feel Ive got to know and love this following mornings game drive cameblessed country even more. up trumps. There! Tiger, whispers our guide, Rati. And there, lounging in the grass is a giant stripy pussycat. We have several keen amateur photographers in the group and it was thrilling to see their excitementTo read Traceys full article on India, scan the QR codeas two more tigers rocked up, just asor visit tgr.ph/greatrailmajestic, fierce and orange as I hoped. Pure magic. RAJASTHANS RICHESOur final stop is Jaipur, a city which stands out as a vivid memory of my original trip. If India was a colour it would be pink. Its ubiquitous but nowhere more so than in Jaipur. We explore the Amber Fort, a huge hilltop fort and palace complex and another icon of India, where Raaj guides us once more through its history. From the battlements, I watch as decorated elephants parade along the approach, camels in tasselled capes crouch on the road, while monkeys bounce off the walls.EXPLORING INDIA 13'