b'PRODUCED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THEHow I fell in love with India all over again Photography: Fred MacGregorAfter exploring India as a youngI was 23 when I was first thrown intoacross India, it was the views from the backpacker, Tracey Davies hadIndias beautiful chaos and I emergedtrain that stayed with me. However, a very different but equallya different person. After nearly threethe Shatabdi Express is a far cry from unforgettable experience on ourdecades, Im excited to see howthe journeys I remember. Comfortable Great Rail Journeys escortedmuch it has changed. But rather thanseats, air conditioning, a cup of chai, a Indias Golden Triangle, travelling as a backpacker, Im doing itbiscuit and a hot meal if you want. Tigers & Shimla tour.in style with Great Rail Journeys. After four hours, we arrive in Kalka For more information on For the next 12 days, Im in the safewhere we board the Toy Train to this tour, see page 60 or hands of Ros Adley, one of Great RailShimla at 7,200 ft above sea level. visit greatrail.com/LTC27 Journeys experienced Tour Managers,The summer capital of the British and Raaj Sharma, wholl be our guide.Raj until 1947, Shimla is immediately recognisable by the candy-coloured DELHI & SHIMLA houses that scatter its slopes. We have three nights at the Oberoi Cecil, Indias railways were at the heart ofShimlas most historic hotel. In the my travels back in 1996, which formorning, we group together for a me was the main draw of a Great Railguided tour of Shimla and visit the Journeys holiday. When I travelledMonkey Temple and Viceregal Lodge, the baronial pile where the Partition agreement was drawn up. After three days, its back to Delhi for a brilliant guided tour. Our first stop is Jama Masjid, Delhis largest mosque. Afterwards, the rickshaw ride through the bustling bazaar is a beautifully intense way to see real life here. AGRA & RANTHAMBOREOnce again Im pleased to have Ros and Raaj in charge. In 1996, I missed my train to Agra. Theres no chance of that with Great Rail Journeys. Even better, all our luggage is taken ahead. 12'